"We are a family of 5: Mom, Dad and the rug rats (10, 8 and 5 years old). I would love to take the kids biking in the Netherlands for 3 days/nights. I’ve been researching and just keep coming up with guided and self-guided tours that seem expensive. Do you have any suggestions on a great route for the kids? And does it make sense to camp? -Rachel" With two kids ourselves, we have plenty of tips for planning a bike tour with kids in the Netherlands. So, here goes…. Kid-Friendly Bicycle Routes Nearly all of the Netherlands is covered in safe and (mostly) flat bike paths. There are literally dozens (if not hundreds) of places we could recommend. That said, here are three of our top picks for family bike tours: Dutch Coastal Route As its name suggests, the Dutch Coastal Route tracks the Dutch seaside. It combines two long-distance bike paths, the LF1 (the Dutch section of the North Sea Cycle Route) and the LF10. Easy access to the beach, the traffic-free bike paths running through the sand dunes and the many little towns along the way make this a good option for families. Various cities and towns nearby the route offer an easy train connection (eg. The Hague, Haarlem, Alkmaar and Den Helder). Zuiderzee Route This route runs around the IJsselmeer (formerly known as the Zuiderzee), along dikes and through historic fishing villages. Going all the way around the IJsselmeer with kids would be too much for three days but you could do a shortened version of the route: start in Amsterdam, or take the train to Purmerend. Either way, your first stop is the famous cheese making village of Edam. Continuing up the coast, there’s a fabulous open air museum (the Zuiderzee Museum) in Enkhuizen. From there, take the ferry to Stavoren and cycle south to the former island of Urk. Note: there is no train station in Urk, so you’ll have to bike a further 25km to Kampen or Dronten to get the train home. Hoge Veluwe National Park The Hoge Veluwe National Park is one of our favourite destinations in the Netherlands; a fantastic landscape combined with one of the country’s best museums and many activities for kids. As far as cycling routes go, we suggest taking the train to Ede, biking through the park and up to Apeldoorn where you could take the kids to see monkeys at the Apenheul or a palace (Paleis Het Loo). From Apeldoorn, you could cycle back through the park to Arnhem to check out the Burgers Zoo, the Afrika Museum or the Open Air Museum (our favourite). If you’re interested in WWII, Arnhem also offers museums for that. Accommodation There are plenty of great campsites in the Netherlands but for shorter trips you probably won’t want to be bothered carrying all the gear. A couple alternatives to normal B&Bs could be: Vrienden op de Fiets – This association offers low-cost accommodation in private homes to anyone travelling by bicycle or on foot. It costs €8 to join and this gives you access to 6,000 lodging addresses. Adults pay a maximum of €19.50 per person, kids €9.50. If you have 3 kids or more, you may find a cheap hotel for about the same price. Trekkers Huts – Many campgrounds offer simple one-room cabins with bunk beds and basic cooking facilities. You would need to bring your own sleeping bags, and it’s always a good idea to book ahead. Other Tips Trains – Dutch trains are fairly bike friendly, and a good option if the kids are tired or you need to shorten the route. You’ll have to buy a ticket for each bike and avoid rush hour (except in the summer and on public holidays, when bikes are allowed all day). Bike spaces are limited, so the more ‘off-peak’ you can travel the easier your trip will be. Types of trains – Intercity trains run between major stops and are the quickest but some models require you to lift your bike into the carriage. The slower Sprinter trains stop everywhere but have tons of space for bikes and you can roll directly into the carriage. Renting Bikes – Most bike rental places in the Netherlands focus on city bikes but there are some interesting options if you look around. For example, MacBike in Amsterdam has bicycles with child seats and a parent child tandem – either of which would be fine for a short tour. Other shops offer fancier options like the Hase Pino tandem (eg. Vierfiets, Jasper Fietsen) but you may have to travel outside Amsterdam to get to them. Source: Travelling Two
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In the 1960s and ‘70s, the nation of Yugoslavia began an immense programme of monument-building – erecting huge, space-age structures up and down the country to commemorate military milestones in the Second World War. The word “spomenik” means “monument”, but is used outside of the countries that once made up Yugoslavia to specifically refer to these futuristic, brutalist war memorials. They were symbols of national pride, tangible objects around which the identity of a newly formed country stitching together numerous ethnic groups could coalesce. To learn of the existence of these monuments is to be instantly fascinated. They exert a powerful pull on the mind, gigantic artefacts from a vanished world. There is something so beguilingly alien about them that we had to go and see them for real. Skopje, the capital city of North Macedonia, is said to be the most complete example of a brutalist city anywhere in the world – due mainly to the fact it was almost totally rebuilt in a short window of time, overseen by one Japanese architect. When we decided to plan a bikepacking trip to visit some brutalist spomeniks, it made sense to start in Skopje. Given North Macedonia (known as the Republic of Macedonia from 1991 to 2018) is a tiny country, just 213km across at its widest point, “why not do a lap?”, we thought. “Lapedonia” was born. Some of the spomeniks in North Macedonia are easy to find. They have been added on Google Maps as places of interest. They are usually the better-maintained ones. Others don’t benefit from a digital pushpin, but can clearly be made out on Street View. Yet others have neither. One, as far as we found, simply does not exist any more. In our quest to hunt these spomeniks, we discovered awe-inspiring structures in remarkable settings and underwhelming piles of fallen-down stones. We ran away from a bear, got hit by a car, and pushed the definition of ‘road cycling’ to its screaming, tortured limit. North Macedonia is wild, there’s no other word for it. North Macedonia has wolves. Loads of them, in fact. More per square mile than any other country in Europe. Only the feckless or wilfully careless would knowingly camp in a secluded part of a vast national park away from human settlements in a country overflowing with wolves. It’s lucky then that we didn’t find out that statistic until after we got back. What we were worried about that night was the bear. With the first day’s big climb into the Mavrovo National Park dispensed with, we looked for somewhere to eat dinner. We were pleased with our first day exertions and confident of rolling off and easily finding a spot to sleep. One big dinner and some Macedonian reds later, we were dismayed to find there was not much flat ground in the gorgeous park – and that our available daylight was quickly dwindling. Deciding that a bird in the hand was worth two in the bush, we picked a grassy, kinda-flat lay-by and decided to make camp. Until Matt, our photographer, said, while peering down into the epic gorge below: “Is that a bear?” It was. A really big one. We panicked. We had to keep going down, to try and put a few kilometres of distance between us. So trundle off we did, downhill in the deepening dark, trying hard to watch out for potholes. Finally we found a deserted cafe, boarded up with a raised concrete patio in front. The patio had a small wooden fence around it with a gate. It would have to do. Sleep didn’t come very quickly that night. Jagged mountains and winding roads. Dense green forests and vast blue lakes. Surly guard dogs, suicidal tortoises and surprise gravel climbs. North Macedonia has all the components for a stunning bikepacking adventure. And wolves. And bears. The towns of North Macedonia are not up to much. Mostly they feel like border outposts, regardless of their position in the country. The dusty air of dozing insecurity. The palpable feeling of potential unrest. Everywhere on the outskirts of towns are these monolithic gutted buildings, wrecked relics of the nation’s Soviet-era past. For the three of us, all born on the same tiny island where real estate is at such a premium that a hulk like these left empty on our shores would immediately be turned into prestige living spaces, these booming abandoned mega-barns are an entrancing spectacle. Logging mills, power plants, train yards and grain stores – every one of them an urban explorer’s dreamscape – we ride past them all again and again. It all looks exactly like you’d imagine the outer limits of Leningrad do, if they had been uprooted from the snowy shores of the Baltic Sea and dumped into a Greek climate. We also see a lot of shanty towns, physical reminders that this is one of the poorest nations in Europe. North Macedonia is not a member of the European Union. It has been declined entry based on concerns over its lack of proper democracy and limited press freedoms. It is poor and you can tell. Kids stare at us. Watch us eat lunch. Find it immeasurably amusing when we eat bread. They are white and we are white, but by looking at us they can immediately tell we are foreigners. Mostly they think we are American. The only words we know how to say are ‘na’ and ‘spomenik’. A vocabulary like that only goes so far to bridging the culture gap. The spomeniks are either urban or rural. The rural ones are neglected, but they feel more magical. In Gevgelija, an upturned egg-beater made of scorched steel juts into the sky. A frame now, it used to be plated with metal sheeting – but that was nicked for scrap long ago. In a lay-by on the way into Mavrovo, our first spomenik is perhaps the most underwhelming of the trip, a broad fresco set in concrete. In Prilep, a set of looming, pristine white chessmen – a memorial to the 700 from the city who died fighting throughout the Second World War. And in Kavadartsi a faux-wooden fort atop a hill, like something you’d find on the forest moon of Endor. They can be bizarre, imposing, depressing and exultant – some of them are all at the same time. The endlessly surprising thing is how little people actually seem to care about them one way or another. To the average North Macedonian, they are just there. Once, the Macedons ruled the universe. Or the part of it they knew existed. Alexander the Great set forth from Macedonia and conquered the known world, forging ever eastward, founding cities, only curtailing his conquest when his men refused to go any further. They were homesick and refused to fight any more, wander any longer. They had reached northern India. In certain moments, we get a sense of the country that must’ve exerted that empire-inhibiting pull upon them. To get from Kichevo to Krusevo we have two choices. To climb three peaks and drop down into the highest city in the Balkans, or take the ‘long’ way round and go on the main road. This means riding ‘past’ Krusevo to the north, then heading south, and climbing up to the town. We opt for the three peaks. Trundle out of Kichevo after kebabs for lunch, turn off the small main road and almost immediately find that it’s gravel. The gravel goes all the way to the top of what becomes clear is a logging road. There is no up-traffic whatsoever and the only things coming down are two huge trucks off to the sawmill. The drivers roll their eyes, laugh at us, enquire about where exactly we think we’re going – but with nothing to say back but ‘no’ or ‘monument’, we just let them roll past. It takes an eternity to get up the mountain and as soon as we crest the ridge line, a pair of barking shepherd’s dogs chase us off their patch. It’s not till we’re about 500m down from the highest point that we pause, look across the valley we’ve just entered; an idyllic agrarian microcosm. Wheat fields carpet the valley floor. Mountains rise up on every side. We cannot see a single settlement from where we stand. An Arcadian scene that – but for a single transmitter mast – could be unchanged since old Alex first wondered what was over that next hill. I laugh out loud at the fantastical beauty of it. Giddy euphoria and the certain knowledge that nobody else has ridden a bike over this today. One ragged descent later and we are rolling on the valley floor. Flat tarmac, a gentle tail wind. Buzzing, but parched, we luck out and find a tiny village shop. It has a payphone outside the door, possibly the only one in town. No frontage, no indication whatsoever of what it is beside a branded drinks fridge, just visible inside the doorway. We descend on it like bees round honey. We must get water! Entering the dim and dusty room, all four sets of eyes inside settle on us. In the fridge, there is no water. No coke, or anything but yoghurt and beer. We choose beer and sit down at the same (sole) table as a man with the most remarkable mustachios I have ever seen not on the face of a silent-era movie villain. He must be 70, but his grip is like a demigod’s. He shakes us each by the hand and – seeing that we’ve bought two large beers between three – orders us a third one. The beers prove to be our undoing. There’s nothing of any nutritional value available in the shop. Empty stomachs and endurance capabilities dulled by alcohol, we trudge like weary footsoldiers over the next two climbs – leaving behind our little valley paradise. It is a wrench to leave it and so we understand how those Ancient Macedons must also have felt when they reached India. Why go on, when it’s so nice right here? An oncoming truck fills the whole road so I get to one side and onto the verge. I overbalance, topple over into the grass. For a moment I think of sleeping just there. If you hit a cyclist with your car in North Macedonia, the protocol – as far as I have observed in a real-world live test – is this.
Blue Shirt will call the station to send the One Guy Who Speaks English down to the roundabout. He needs the One Guy Who Speaks English to translate the questions he hurls in the direction of any of the cyclists, but Blue Shirt is the maestro in this situation, conducting the public like an orchestra leader, deflecting the useless salvos of information thrown his way with an irritated flick of his pen. The Stokowskiiof smash-ups. The Berlioz of broken bumpers. The ambulance will arrive. Check the cyclist is ok. The cyclist will insist he is, so as to avoid losing valuable hours of cycling time in the Strumica hospital emergency room. Word will arrive on the radio that the driver has been caught. He will be fined. The crime scene photographer will arrive and photograph the bike. The skid marks on the road. The bike again. The shattered road furniture. He will say something to Blue Shirt and all of a sudden, it is over. “He says, ‘you can go’.” The cyclists will say “thank you” profusely because, after all, they are British. One will make a joke and, despite insisting he does not speak English, Blue Shirt will laugh the loudest. Surfing the elevation loss from the high mountains that make the border with Bulgaria, we are chased by a storm. It’s rolling down from Bansko, the cut-price ski resort, and heading inland. Into Macedonia. Exactly where we’re going. We have a spomenik to see outside Mitrasinci, it’s a concrete claw, reaching up to grab for the sky – like an inverted version of those arcade games where you can, with an investment of £20-£35, win a cuddly toy worth 56p. Whatever it might be reaching for, the thunderstorm is what’s coming into view. The spomenik is not in the tiny village, it’s up on the hill that overlooks it. The spomenik itself isn’t visible from the road; it’s screened by a copse of pine trees. On the back side of the hill, a way through the trunks has been made – brutal concrete slabs are employed as steps up to the monument. At the top are some useless concrete plinths off to the corners of the flat clearing and a huge radio antenna. Then central, the claw. As we stand there, a few fat drops hit our jackets. But not many. Most of the storm is rolling around to either side of the hill. We are in a freakish pocket of calm at the centre of the storm. Like almost all the other ones – at least those in rural areas – this spomenik feels abandoned. No other tourists. No sign of human habitation or visitation. No plaques, nor anything indicating just what it is that we’re looking at. The 50th partisan brigade of Macedonia, the unit to which this spomenik is dedicated, was formed in 1944 when the tide was already inexorably turned in favour of the Allied forces. Facing back towards town, we watch the lightning storm travel away from us. Into the valley, then the next valley and the next. Huge tendrils of white light thrash down from sky into ridge line. Emergency services surround Tom in Strumica after his hit-and-run incident. The ambulance will arrive. Check the cyclist is ok. The cyclist will insist he is, so as to avoid losing valuable hours of cycling time in the Strumica hospital emergency room. Word will arrive on the radio that the driver has been caught. He will be fined. The crime scene photographer will arrive and photograph the bike. The skid marks on the road. The bike again. The shattered road furniture. He will say something to Blue Shirt and all of a sudden, it is over. “He says, ‘you can go’.” The cyclists will say “thank you” profusely because, after all, they are British. One will make a joke and, despite insisting he does not speak English, Blue Shirt will laugh the loudest. Sheltering from a thunderstorm. Surfing the elevation loss from the high mountains that make the border with Bulgaria, we are chased by a storm. It’s rolling down from Bansko, the cut-price ski resort, and heading inland. Into Macedonia. Exactly where we’re going. We have a spomenik to see outside Mitrasinci, it’s a concrete claw, reaching up to grab for the sky – like an inverted version of those arcade games where you can, with an investment of £20-£35, win a cuddly toy worth 56p. Whatever it might be reaching for, the thunderstorm is what’s coming into view. The spomenik is not in the tiny village, it’s up on the hill that overlooks it. The spomenik itself isn’t visible from the road; it’s screened by a copse of pine trees. On the back side of the hill, a way through the trunks has been made – brutal concrete slabs are employed as steps up to the monument. At the top are some useless concrete plinths off to the corners of the flat clearing and a huge radio antenna. Then central, the claw. As we stand there, a few fat drops hit our jackets. But not many. Most of the storm is rolling around to either side of the hill. We are in a freakish pocket of calm at the centre of the storm. The Spomenik outside Mitrasinci. Like almost all the other ones – at least those in rural areas – this spomenik feels abandoned. No other tourists. No sign of human habitation or visitation. No plaques, nor anything indicating just what it is that we’re looking at. The 50th partisan brigade of Macedonia, the unit to which this spomenik is dedicated, was formed in 1944 when the tide was already inexorably turned in favour of the Allied forces. Facing back towards town, we watch the lightning storm travel away from us. Into the valley, then the next valley and the next. Huge tendrils of white light thrash down from sky into ridge line. A thunderstorm in the distance at a Spomenik outside Mitrasinci. I think about partisans, of empires, of German boys being sent to fight in these hills and being routed again and again by the hardened men who lived, hunted, and worked the land here all their lives. Men who were fighting for their home against lads who barely knew where they were. Boys from Berlin, Munich and the icy Baltic coast, thrust into a lush, green and sweltering landscape filled with snakes – barely understanding why they were there, nerves jangling with the effects of Pervitin. I think of Alexander and his Macedons, on the furthest-flung edge of the known world. A man full of ambition to go and see and conquer more than any other in history, held back by his men who were homesick and wanted to go home to their land of green valleys and honey so sweet it crosses your eyes. I think of the home they must have left and I can still see shimmers of it today. In the heat haze over the road, in the places not filled with nightmarish concrete hulks and ragged dogs. On the vines that grow in the east and the unthinkable vastness of Lake Ohrid in the south. In the rumbling gait of the bears in Mavrovo. As the lightning strikes again, I wonder if any of those boys had thunderbolts on their lapels. I think lastly about my own country, tearing itself apart as it tries to come to terms with its own post-empire place in the world. Screaming its own importance as the world averts embarrassed eyes. Slamming a door closed and screaming, “And we’re never coming back…” I think empires are stupid. Text: Tom Owen | Photography: Matt Grayson
Friday Night Ride to the Coast has been spreading the joy of night riding for almost 15 years. If you missed this year’s Dunwich Dynamo, or feel that it’s a little too big, chaotic or (whisper it) competitive, you might trying catching the next Friday Night Ride to the Coast. This is a carefully organised event run by “the Fridays”, a club devoted to the singular cause of safely delivering you at a conversational pace from the Smoke to the sea. They do this every month from spring through autumn, requiring only third party insurance and an annual membership fee of £2. The FNRttC, as it’s known to veterans, has been spreading the joy of night riding for almost 15 years, flying quietly under the radar of most cyclists dazzled by mass congregations such as the Dynamo and the Exmouth Exodus. Guardian Today: the headlines, the analysis, the debate - sent direct to you It was started by Simon Legg,, who spent a decade escorting thousands to Brighton, Whitstable and other destinations with decent transport links. When he retired he entrusted his legacy to a group of seasoned ride leaders who take turns as mother hen. The distance ranges from 55 to 75 miles, and popular routes can attract more than 100 participants. There are tail-end Charlies and human waymarkers, sometimes recruited on the spot, to ensure nobody is lost or left behind. Rides begin at midnight with a chat about safety and etiquette, jokes optional. Mechanical problems along the way are met with expert assistance, though you’re advised to give your bike a thorough checkup beforehand, and particularly implored to “lose everything that you don’t really, really need”. It’s all a far cry from the Dynamo-style experience of hoping the blinking lights ahead of you are going the right way. Let’s just say the £2 is good value. It’s a great social mixer, but there are also opportunities for solitude as you pull each other along on an invisible stretchy rope. Punctures are a communal affair. “Houston, we have a problem,” one of the minders will more or less transmit to the front, and so all will wait, grateful it wasn’t them. This time. “Why ride at night?” you may be asking. It can seem daunting, particularly after a work day, and anyway, what is there to see? I almost imagine Fitzgerald discussing it with Hemingway: “The night is different to the day.” “Yes, it’s darker.” We ride at night because it’s there, conveniently out of the way of the usual routine. Less traffic is a bonus, but magic moments are made of more than this. There’s the moon, for a start: those times when it paints the road silver and the mist mysterious, inviting you to dabble in poetry. When not moonstruck, the darkness itself is the draw, a coverlet silencing the day’s concerns, yet granting permission for thoughts to drift forever out into space – while remembering to yell “Car up!”, the traditional cyclist’s warning of traffic on the lanes. Or “Cow up!”, as we found on a recent ride to Eastbourne. There are bats and badgers and other nocturnal creatures clocking in, which helps rouse you out of any stupor you may have been falling into. Hills become easier. Shrouded in mystery, their summits mere conjecture, they are far less daunting. But possibly the biggest draw is the intimacy of cycling with people all on the same mission, getting a buzz off their energy, their tired happy faces in the morning’s light a mirror of your own. “Why are you doing this?” I’ve asked fellow riders, particularly when the weather gods haven’t been kind and perspiration is more than matched by precipitation. Answers ranged from: “I’m getting miles in to help with Paris-Brest-Paris” – a 1,200km jolly – to: “My friend talked me into it.” There were plenty of dreamy shrugs: “Why not?” In the FNRttC, a small group of people can find a way of bucking the system, or at least their usual circadian rhythms. For some, it’s an answer to a question they may not even have been aware they’d been asking themselves. Carpe noctem! Source: Bike Blog
My HuanDao Taiwan trip took place from the middle of September to mid October 2017. It was extremely hot during that time with the temperature never going below 35 degrees Celsius during the day (apart from the last day which was the only rainy day of my trip) and even including the hottest ever October day in the history of Taiwan. In the mountains it was obviously cooler. The extreme temperature made that I averaged only around 60-70km a day and drinking and cooling down in air conditioned 7-elevens became the rhythm of my trip. Because of the heat I also decided not to camp and stay in local airconditioned guesthouses to have a good night’s sleep. General daily rhythm During my entire trip I had quite a similar way of going through my days. I would usually mean getting up and either have breakfast at the guesthouse (if it was included) or go to a close by 7-11. I would always have a coffee and a soymilk (豆浆) on the side. After that I would start riding for about 20km before cooling down in the air conditioning of the local 7-11 or family mart. After that I would ride another 20km or so have a snack/some food and keep going till about 5-6pm. I ended up quite a few times riding in the dark but especially on the West coast this is never a problem as the roads are well lit and the cycling lanes are wide and well-respected by motorized traffic. Trip details Here is a detailed run down of my trip cycling around Taiwan including the places I slept, the route I took and the food places that you shouldn’t miss. Day 1: Taipei – Longdong/Bitou cape (台北- 鼻頭角) 61km – 1,222m elevation gain Rode east out of Taipei towards Keelung city. Had a good lunch there at the nightmarket (which was open during the day) and then continued following the coast towards Bitou cape. Here I stayed in a cute small hostel called the Bivy that is run by climbers. Longdong itself has a cool small harbour with some restaurants right nect to it. If you have energy and time you can hike the 2 km or towards the Bitou lighthouse as well for spectacular views and sheer cliffs. Alternatively you could add in Jiufen during your ride but as I had been there before I didnt bother doing the climb up towards the town. Day 2: Longdong/Bitou cape – Yilan/Luodong (鼻頭角-羅東) 81.3km – 659 elevation gain Coninued along the coast from Bitou cape in the direction of Yilan. Some sections have dedicated cycling paths but most of the time you are sharing the road with cars. I rode a bit further than Yilan to Luodong and stayed there in a nice apartment hostel called Green hostel (綠舍背包客棧). Located super central and right next to the night market. Day 3: Yilan/Luodong – Nanshan (羅東- 南山村) 61,2km – 1,565 elevation gain The first day into the mountains started out with a flat first 20km. But from there it was climbing all the way to Nanshan. Pretty steep sections and little downhills make it quite an irregular climb. The lack of traffic is great. There is no 7-11 or Family Mart until you reach Nanshan but some little shops along the way sell drinks and snacks. In Nanshan stayed in a cool Minsu called 哈勇的家 (HaYong de Jia) (700NT$ including breakfast). Day 4: Nanshan – Lishan (南山村- 梨山) 47,4km – 1,507m elevation gain More climbing this day. Towards Yishan the climb gets a lot more regular and less steep which is great with touring bags. Great scenery all along the way all the way to Lishan at an altitude of 1956m above sea level. In Lishan I stayed at the local monastry 梨山靈山慈元宮母堂 for (300NT$) and I was lucky as they provided me with free dinner too. This place is very special due to the temple atmosphere. The accomodation though is super basic and definitely not for everyone. But if you are a bit adventurous and looking for a unique experience stay here. Day 5: Lishan – Wuling (梨山 – 武嶺) 53.2km – 1,758m elevation gain The final day of uphill towards Taiwan highest road at 3250m of elevation. It starts with a 5km downhill but then a gradual up again until you hit the Taroko gorge road at Da Yu Ling (大禹嶺) just after the tunnel. From there it is another 8km to the top. However this is by far the steepest section with inclinations up to 27% I left my touring bags at a house in Da Yu Ling to tackle these steep parts as light as possible and I am happy I did. The ascend is a real challenge with very steep parts alternated with flatter recovery sections. Very fun though but a struggle due to the high altitude. When I reached HeHuaShan (合歡山瞭望台) I thought I had reached the highest point already. So took some pics and turned around back down. Turns out you got to continue another kilometer to reach the real Wuling for the official top and the better views. It is worth noting that there is budget accommodation at HeHuaShan: Song Syue Lodge (松雪樓) and Ski lodge (滑雪山莊). As the reviews are very mixed I opted to go down and stay about 15km down from the top in a hostel named 救國團觀雲山莊. 500NT$ gets you a dorm bed and a Taiwanese breakfast. There is option for dinner but you have to call ahead and reserve it. Otherwise they sell instant noodles that can serve as your emergency dinner. They also have privates. Day 6: Wuling – Hualien (武嶺 – 花蓮市) 99.1km – 2800m vertical drop down! The ultimate downhill cycling day. From the top of Wuling it is 80km of downhill from an altitude of 3250m all the way back to sea level. As I stated 15km down from the top I only had 65km of downhill this day…but how awesome: almost no traffic, gorgeous newly paved road, amazing scenery and beautiful weather. I stopped many times just to take in the scenery. The last 20km of the downhill, once you pass TianXiang (天祥) it gets crowded with toursists. Tianxiang has multiple food options and a 7-11 to stock up on drinks. Even a hostel and some hotels if you want to stay in the Taroko gorge. At the bottom of the downhill you hit a town called XinCheng (新城 (太魯閣)). I continued another 20km to Hualien. In Hualien there is a cool night market (東大門夜市) that is worth visiting. It is bustling with life, food, music and it is a really good place to get a beer too. Day 7: Hualien – Ruisui (花蓮市 – 瑞穗) 79km – 536m elevation gain From Hualien you have two options to continue your cycling loop around Taiwan. One follows the coast and the other follows a parallel, more inland road called the East Rift Valley. I opted for the latter option and had a good day riding through this valley. End of the day made it to the Spa town of RuiSui where I found a cool Japanese style guesthouse just around the corner of the family mart, in the Spa part of town. It has no internet presence but the coordinates are (23.494425, 121.346822). Fro 500NT$ I got a room there. Day 8: Ruisui – Taitung (瑞穗 – 臺東) 74.2km – 923m vertical gain This day my Belgium friend Sander joined me. Straight out of RuiSui, on the main road, you will cross the Tropic of Cancer invisible line. Well quite visible actually as there is a Tropic of Cancer marker Park (北回歸線標誌公園) with a big statue…and ever better…a giant tea pot. After some pictures (in Taiwan do like the Taiwanese we rode owards to Yuli and decided from there to cross the mountains and hit the coastal road. In Yuli make sure you stop for stinky Tofu at 玉里橋頭臭豆腐. It is world-famous in Taiwan. While riding the coast we rode through two cool little towns. The first one is Donghe, which is hyper famous for its baozi (steamed buns). Great little lunch break there and the shop that is so famous (舊街東河包子) has a really cool garden where you can chill in the shade. The next cool town you will pass is Dulan. It is a real artist town full of galleries and very famous for its arty converted sugar factory (新東糖廠文化園區). Also good surfing in this place and full of guesthouses and hostels. It has a real hippie feel to it and would make for a great stopover. The weekend especially as there are loads of places with live music and good parties, including in the sugar factory. We were there on a monday and it felt a bit dead so we decided to continue to the much bigger city of Taitung (台东). Found a cool hotel (鳳麟庭園民宿) there where we stayed for 900NT$ in a private room (so 450NT$ each) on walking distance from the centre and the coast. Day 9: resting day in Taitung At this point I felt pretty tired from riding 8 days straight so decided to have a resting day and explore Taitung. The city has a couple of interesting things to see with the highlights being LiYuShan Park (a park on a hill with a cool pagoda a nice view over the city, ocean and the surrounding mountains), Railway Art Village (a former railway station turned arty creative zone) and Paposogan/seashore park which has a really funky and cool dome that represents the language tree of all Pacifica interrelated languages. The dome is really cool at night as it gets lit up beautifully. Surprisingly there is one really cool bar in Taitung that is really worth going for a beer: Texas Jo’s Bar & Diner (德周小館). It has great outdoor seating and a general awesome vibe. Highly recommended. Day 10: Taitung – Dawu (台东- 大武) 61.1km – 852m elevation gain The next day Sander left back to Taipei and I continued my HuanDao ride South along the coast. It was a nice riding day with great tarmac and gentle climbs that never went about 100m of elevation. I stayed in a guesthouse/minsu right at the mainroad and next to the harbour in DaWu named 尚武民宿 (No. 6-6, Huangang Road, Dawu Township) where I had a Japanese style dormintory for myself for 600$NT. Day 11: Dawu – Mudan/Shimen (大武 – 牡丹/石门) 44.8km – 752m elevation gain Starting in Dawu I had about 10km warm up ride before hitting a 400m vertical climb. As it was extremely hot I struggled a bit with the climb but managed to snail-pace it up to the top. What followed from there on is definitely one of the best riding days of the entire trip: a single lane road, well-paved with absolutely zero traffic and gorgeous scenery. The road kept winding in an extremely green forest landscape with stunning viewpoints and passing through small local villages. I rode to ShiMen in the Mudan township (石门牡丹乡). Shimen is an aboriginal town with some cool guesthouses run by locals. Descending into town your eye will get caught by the huge lake and there are immediately two cool little cafes next to the road. The first one is right after the last bit of the descend (Coordinates: 22.128546, 120.785235) and the 2nd one is a shop with a nice terrace next to river and Mudan bridge (牡丹大橋). Shimen/Mudan has a great feel to it and so I decided to stay there for the night at HongWa MinSu (red tile guesthouse 紅瓦民宿). Opposite this one is another excellent choice called 牡丹民宿山莊 (MuDan MinSu ShanZhuang) which seemed slightly more expensive. Day 12: Mudan/Shimen – Kending Street (牡丹/石门 – 墾丁大街) 52.9km – 462m elevation gain Continuing in the direction of Taiwan’s Southern most point the next day I headed for Kending national park. A fairly easy ride which started with some more downhill and then just due South on the main road from Kaohsiung. Just before hitting that main road I stumbled upon an imressive temple that I could see from miles away. Wan Ying Gong Miao (萬應公廟) has a massive towering golden Buddha sitting on top of the Temple’s roof. You can’t miss it if you keep your eyes open while riding towards the town of CheCheng. For the night I decided to stay in Kending Street which is the town closest to the beach. Here I dropped my bags in My Home hostel (946, Taiwan, Pingtung County, Hengchun Township, Tonghai Lane, Kending Rd, 21號2 號) and continued riding towards Taiwan’s souternmost point around 10km further. Got there just before dark, snapped some pics and rode back. There are some cool things to see along the way and the road is well-paved. Kending Street is well-known for its night market that fills up the entire main street every night. Plenty of food to savour but at the far southern end there are also a couple of quirky mobile bars that are great to go for a drink. Day 13: Kending street – Hengchun (墾丁大街 – 恆春) 70.5km – 677m elevation gain Today I decided to explore the entire Southern peninsula by bike. But before doing that I packed my bags, rode to Hengchun (only 10km) and dropped them at the Rainbow Wave Surfing hostel (墾丁彩虹波浪沖浪背包旅店). From there I rode Eastwards in the direction of JiaLeShui. Almost immediately I hit a massive street parade of dragons, loud drums and loads of fireworks. Mesmerized by it I watched it for half an hour where offerings were made to the local temple by the dressed up groups each carrying a local altar. Pretty impressive and highly colourful. Once the parade finished I rode to JiaLeShui and subsequently followed the coastal road further down southwards. The section from JiaLeShui to the Southernmost point of Taiwan is absolutely stunning and well worth the detour. If you fancy a surf you can stop at JiaLeShui rent a board and hop in the water for some hours. There is a cool red pedestrian suspension bridge there too that is worth checking out (Gangkou Suspension Bridge, 屏東滿州港口吊橋). Adding in another loop passing White Sand Bay (墾丁白沙灣海灘) – which I didnt see by the way as it was dark already when I passed – I made it back to HengChun and the really cool Rainbow Wave hostel (Dorm 500$NT, incl. breakfast). HengChun itself is quite a cool town as well with a quirky pedestrian street, some remnants of the old city walls and a great night market on Sunday nights. Day 14: Resting day Hengchun (恆春) A day of lazing around in Hengchun, walking around town and just relaxing in the hostel. Day 15: Hengchun – Kaohsiung (恆春 – 高雄) 98.8km – 545m elevation gain This stage was pretty straightforward as I just had to follow the coastal road up North to Taiwan’s second biggest city Kaohsiung. Some nice coastal riding however most of the time I was at the wrong side of the road (a bit too far away from the coastal view) as I was riding Northwards. Would I have ridden southwards, which most Taiwanese I met were doing, then I would have been on the road shoulder immediately next to the coast with better views. Around halfway I decided to leave the mainroad and follow a smaller road right at the shoreline. The area here is completely dominated by fish farms which made for an interesting scenery. The coastal road however was shit as it was behind an elevated dyke taking away the entire coastal view. So not really worth it in hindsight. I reached Kaohsiung as the sun was setting and checked into the Backpackers Inn. It is an ok hostel (a bit sterile) which has an amazing roof terrace. Day 16: exploring Kaohsiung (高雄) by bike 23.5km – 357 elevation gain I had heard great things about Kaohsiung so decided to do a day of exploring the city. First on was the Art pier, a former shipping wharf converted in an art and exhibition centre. It is full of old warehouses turned galleries and plenty of street art installations, graffiti and random cool statues. From there I went on towards the university area as I had heard there is beach right on the university campus. The rumours appeared to be true but the beach was pretty bad. The location of the university is awesome though as it is build up against the hills of the ShouShan National park overlooking the ocean. I rode back and took the ferry to QiJin, the old part of town on a peninsula facing the new modern city. There is a much nicer beach there with some bars and eateries that are worth exploring. Along the coast there is a nice cycling path too that I followed for about 10km. NIce views and some cool art installations along the way too (including a giant seashell). Day 18: Extra rest day in Kaohsiung Day 19: Kaohsiung – Tainan (高雄 – 台南) 61.3km – 533m elevation gain Riding out of Kaohsiung I decided to follow the ‘love river’. Most of it had a nice cycling path just parallel to the river in a green park-like surroundings. Definitely a very enjoyable start. Away from the river I headed to another one of Kaohsiung’s famous landmarks: The Lotus Pond (蓮池潭) with its fantastic tiger and dragon pagodas. The pagodas are one of the most unique and colourful pagodas I have ever seen in Asia. Did some great picture taking with them and explored the pagodas for a good hour or so, time very well spent. From the Lotus pond my next destination was Taiwan’s former capital: Tainan. An easy afternoon’s ride away I reached there late afternoon and checked into the centrally located Wow hostel. A really cool thing about this place is that the Wow hostel has special rates for huandao people. Their normal rate is 500NT$ for a dorm bed but if you motorbike, cycle or walk around Taiwan they offer discounted rates of 400, 300 and 200NT$ respectively. Pretty awesome. Day 20: Tainan bike exploration 31.7km – 381m vertical elevation I decided to stay 2 nights in Tainan in which I went exploring Tainan’s amazing maze of small street, historical sights (including Fort Zeelandia, a fort build by the Dutch colonialists who had occupied Taiwan for 38 years and Anping old street), great food scene and nightlife. Hopping on my bike I rode over to the coastal area where I saw one of the better Taiwan beaches so far. Had a dip in the sea, checked out Fort Zeelandia and rode around Taijian national park (台江國家公園). The latter looks like a maze of green and waterways on google maps but in reality isn’t that impressive at all. Randomly rode around on small roads next to fish farms, lakes and waterways for a while. It was only until I returned to the Qiaotou beach (橋頭海灘) and followed the cycling path up north back into the Tainan city centre that it became worthwhile. For a drink in Tainan there is the great Armory Tainan (great outdoor garden seating for a beer), Legends sports bar (amazing pizza in an old industrial complex) and the bar street at section 2 of Hai’an road (including Dive bar) with all its eateries and fun bars. Day 21: Tainan exploration As it was the mid autumn long holiday weekend the city (and bars) were full of tourists and devoid of locals. It made for a difficult search for a night’s accommodation on my third night in Tainan but with help of the wow hostel staff I managed to find a bed in the old man captain hostel, right next to the train station. It was good enough for a night and I left the next morning continuing my ‘Taiwan Huan Dao’. Day 22: Tainan – Budai (台南 – 布袋鎮) 73.4km – 423m vertical gain The super busy holiday weekend made it hard for me to decide where to go next as, online, most guesthouses and hostels within a day’s riding seemed fully booked. Scrolling over the map I stumbled upon Budai and its unbelievable ‘High-Heeled Shoe Church’!!!!. I couldn’t believe my eyes and knew I had to go there. By pure chance I managed to book the last bed in the Light Shadow hostel (光影民宿), located right next to the high-heeled church. Perfect. Riding out of Tainan I decided to check-out the Taiwan Salt Museum and its accompanying salt hill, both located on the way to Budai. It being a holiday weekend made the place way too crowded to my liking so I just went in and tried out some of their colourful and flavoured salts and took a picture of the salt hill from far away. Not a big highlight but ok as it was on the way anyway. Riding straight north to Budai I made it there just after dark. Entering Budai I stopped for a mango shake and cycled through town straight to the highlight of the day: the high-heeled shoe church. And oh did it not disappoint. The shoe shaped church was colourfully lit up and an absolute hilarious sight. Definitely one of my personal highlights of cycling around Taiwan! So random. So cool. For dinner I went to the night market and had a great steak with noodles and egg on a hot plate (牛肉排) for 120NT$. You can often find it on night markets as well and is a great carb and protein replenisher. A definite winner. Day 23: Budai – Jiji (布袋鎮 – 集集鎮) 96.9km – 537m vertical gain From Budai I aimed for Jiji, a town at the foot of the fabled Sun Moon lake. It meant following the #157 road for most of the day…and by sheer luck…with a backwind. So it turned into a great rolling day of speeds hovering around 30km/h all day long. Once again it was extremely hot with temperatures of around 38 degrees celcius. All during my trip I found it hard to drink enough to compensate for the extreme seating so today I decided to note all the drinks I used all day long. And here is the impressive list:
When I arrived in Jiji I check into the Lu An backpacker hostel (旅安背包客驿站) which is a great place with awesome owners. On arrival they weren’t there but the neigbours, who were having a bbq outside, called them and invited me for a beer and some grilled chicken while waiting for the hostel owners. Great end of a long sweaty day. Day 24: JiJi – Puli (集集鎮 – 埔里) 57.7km – 1,157m vertical gain Today’s highlight was going to be the sun moon lake (日月潭), one of Taiwan’s defining landmarks. From JiJi this meant an initial 10km flat section followed by an eight kilometer climb to the lake on an altitude of about 750m. Once I reached the lake i followed its eastern shore looping two-third of the entire lake. Beautiful views with touristy sights mixed in made it a great exploration day. An extra plus was that most of the lake ride was forrest shaded making it much more bearable than the sun-infused sweaty rides of the days before. In Puli I stayed at the very homey ‘Here Hostel Puli’ (No. 2, Yingliu Street). The owner was fantastic and we ended up drinking some beers with his friends in the hostel’s living room. Day 25: Puli – Taichung (埔里 – 臺中市) 55.3km – 434m elevation gain Fun downhill day for about 50km with very little traffic on the #14 road all the way from Puli to Taichung. For starters I cycled a couple kilometers in the wrong direction to check out the Geographic centre of taiwan landmark (臺灣地理中心碑) just outside Puli’s city centre. Snapped a pic of the unimpressive monument and went on my way downhilling towards Taichung. On the way i stumbled upon a cool temple Dun He Gong (敦和宮) but the highlight was just the great tarmac road constantly slanting downhill with great views along the way. In Taichung I arrived once again around dusk and checked into the Happy Inn & Hostel (快樂腳旅棧) which was right in the centre. Could store the bike in their lobby and they had a night market right outside the door where I could score some good food. The river area a couple hundred meters from the hostel is nicely lit up at night and worth a look. Day 26: Taichung – Hsinchu city (臺中市 – 新竹市) 89.1km – 936m vertical gain Today was a full head wind day! Exiting the city was followed by a gradual uphill for the first 30km. Add to that the headwind and I was off to quite an intense start. However the gradual 25km downhill that followed made everything better and assured a steady progress towards Hsinchu city arriving there late afternoon. I stayed in the Chuan Lai Hotel (川籟都會旅店) which has simple rooms including breakfast and is well located close to the centre and next to a cool food market. Hsinchu itself is a pleasant city with a cool green stretch of park in the centre of town around which a whole bunch of cool bars and restaurants are located called the Hsinchu moat. There is even a very cool bar street with a collection of cool little pubs on 新竹市東區民族路33巷. An all time favourite foreigner hang out is the Red bar located somewhere half way on that street. Definitely worth a visit if you are there. Day 27: rest day Hsinchu city A day exploring the city and going for food and drinks at the food market and bar street as described previously. Good times guaranteed! Day 28: Hsinchu city – Taipei 78.5km – 796m vertical gain The last stage of my Taiwan Huan Dao cycling trip was the only time it rained in the entire month touring the island. I was off for a dry start but slowly during the day the rain go more intense. The ride itself can be summarized as an ever increasing urban density as the Taipei suburbs and city outliers are really just an extension of the big city. I arrived around sunset time in Taipei, checked in a hostel and finished the trip with a big meal and a Taiwan beer! Source: Kickass Trips
Taiwan is generally considered the most bike friendly place in all of Asia with its dedicated cycling lanes, plethora of bike sharing schemes and a government actively promoting cycling culture. Due to this cycling revival, which was kickstarted about 10 years ago through a movie, cycling a loop around the island has become a “once in a lifetime must do” for the Taiwanese. In Chinese they even have a dedicated word for this tour around Taiwan called Huandao (環島台灣) which literally means ‘around the island’. Inspired by this cycling culture and local friends telling me about the great riding in Taiwan I went on a Huandao bike touring Taiwan trip in September 2018. And it was awesome! History & Cult status of cycling Huan Dao (環島台灣) in Taiwan Taiwan is making a name for itself as a cycling heaven. Taipei is the best case in point with its 300+km network of bicycle paths with the majority running alongside rivers and streams flowing through the city. This has inspired many people picking up cycling to commute to work or as a sport. And Taipei’s Mayor, Ko Wen-Je himself is one of the most active cyclists of them all. In 2017 at the age of 56 he cycled the 520km from Taiwan’s northern end to its southern tip in under 29 hours. “I wanted to nurture a ‘Just Do It’ mentality in Taipei,” Ko tweeted afterward. “So I started with myself.” And an impact he is making…The bicycle has become a part of life for a growing number of Taiwanese, who use it to commute, socialize or simply to stay in shape. In Taipei, bicycles are used for 5.1% of journeys, according to data from Taipei’s transportation department — well above the 2% transport share achieved in London. Introduced during Japanese rule in the 19th century, the bicycle was once a part of everyday life for Taiwanese, but it was gradually abandoned in favor of cheap gasoline-powered scooters and motorized vehicles in the eighties. Today there are 14 million scooters in this country of 23.5 million people. But cycling is catching up quickly spurred largely by Youbike, a fantastic public-private partnership between Giant Bicycles of Taiwan — the world’s largest bicycle manufacturer — and Taipei’s transportation department. Launched in 2009 and now available in all major cities in Taiwan, the initiative has close to 400 bike stations in Taipei alone. For cyclists, it is cheap (or even free in certain cities)to us the bikes for the first 30 minutes. As per 2017 the program had facilitated more than 73 million bike rentals. But the greatest inspiration for Taiwan’s cycling revival came from a whole different direction: a cult movie called Island Etude. Island Etude (練習曲) Taiwan cycling cult movie A surprise hit film called “Island Etude,” released in 2006 inspired all of Taiwan to go cycling…and notably a full loop around their own country. Island Etude’s storyline is very much focused on cycling. In the film, a deaf university student cycles around Taiwan’s coast with a backpack and a guitar and discovers interesting landscapes, customs and people. The film planted the seed of cycling a Huandao (環島台灣) was planted in many people’s head. “Island Etude” and its signature line: “There are some things … if you don’t do them now, you’ll never do them in your life” really changed a generation of young Taiwanese and opened them up to the idea that cycling was cool. It led to a huge uptick of young people cycling Taipei’s river paths, getting ready to huandao.” Huandao, a Mandarin phrase for touring round an island, has become a rite of passage for many Taiwanese, while cycling in general has become fashionable across all segments of the population. Today it is the fourth most-popular primary form of physical activity among Taiwanese after walking, jogging and basketball. Taiwan’s amazing Huandao cycling infrastructure Taiwan’s government has put in place an amazing infrastructure to facilitate cycling. A lot of police stations along the popular coastal route number 1 serve as rest stops that offer free water refills, camping spots next to the station and even light maintenance and repair assistance for huandao cyclists. Bike lanes along the coast are often as wide as car lanes. There are also plenty of of huandao bike rental networks, including one run by Giant, that allow you to pick up a huandao touring bike – including paniers, a repair kit, pump, speedometer and front and back lights – in one city and return it in another. Hostels and small hotels in Taiwan’s cities and countryside are also benefiting from the vibrant cycling culture and many of these establishments started catering specifically to cyclists. 7-11 cyclist heaven The needs of cyclists are also well-catered for by Taiwan’s 5,000-plus 7-Eleven grocery stores. Aside from offering food and drinks, 7-Eleven has train ticketing services and even acts as a postal service, allowing items such as clean clothes or laptops to be sent to strategic locations along the route. The shops are extremely well outfitted for bicycle tourers: bicycle drink bottles with sports drinks, gels, aircon (to escape the heat), good coffee, full meals, heaps of snacks including my favourite BBQ sweet potatoes. Family mart is a very similar chain of convenience stores but with (in my opinion) better hot meals. Eric Lin, director of the Taiwan Tourism Bureau’s international department, said that the number of bicycle tourists coming to Taiwan has been growing steadily in recent years. “We’re promoting Taiwan as a cycling destination in other markets, highlighting how convenient it is,” Lin said. Chinese-speaking cyclists from China, Hong Kong, Malaysia and Singapore were primary targets, he added. Cycling has changed how many Taiwanese view their own country, according to Ma. He described two types of Taiwanese cyclists: those focused on speed and those focused on experience. The speed-obsessed may finish the 900km circuit of Taiwan in a week or so, but for many who take the time to explore over a two-week period, he said, the journey has a profound impact, reinforcing Taiwanese identity, as it did for the protagonist of “Island Etude.” “They end up loving their country even more than before,” Ma said. Bike route no. 1 Cycling a full loop around the island is best done following the Huandao route number 1. It is fully signposted all the way around Taiwan and basically follows the coast line for most of the journey. Taiwan Cycle Route No.1 (環島1號線) is a 968 km (602 mile) bicycle route around the island of Taiwan to huan-dao (環島) sometimes translated as a “cycle-the-island-trip”. He route was developed by the Taiwan (R.O.C.) Ministry of Transportation and Communications and inaugurated on December 30, 2015. The route is marked with road signs and road markings and it follows a mixture of dedicated bicycle paths, less-traveled country roads, and busier roads with dedicated cycle lanes. Although the route may be started at any point, the initial 0 kilometer marking is at Songshan Station in Taipei. Cycling the entire route generally takes 9-12 days. For the route planning have a look at the excellent government huandao cycling website here or download an entertaining map description here. Clockwise or counter-clockwise around the Island? Most Taiwanese go counter-clockwise tackling the very urban East coast first and riding the very pretty West side of the Island while coming back up North. I did it exactly the other way around as it felt more natural to me but really there is not much difference to it. To avoid the tricky and dangerous Yilan to Hualien section (many many trucks and narrow mountainous road sections full of dark tunnels). I went up and inland from Yilan towards Lishan and Wuling, Taiwan’s highest road at 3250m of elevation. Although it meant three days of uphill cycling this was the highlight of my trip and well worth it. The added benefit is that you are rewarded after all that uphill riding with a 100km downhill through Taiwan’s most stunning natural sight: the Taroko gorge national park. Simply breathtaking. Giant huandao bike touring rental program The Giant huandao touring bike rental program is fantastic. I used one of their bikes which costs TWD1200 for the first three days and TWD200 for every subsequent day. The bikes are nice touring bikes that come with paniers, speedometer, repair kit, handy pump and front and back lights. Bike service at other Giant shops along the way (which are plentiful) is free of charge too. Find info about Giant’s huandao bicycle rental program here and here is a store finder. You can make reservations for a huandao bike over email or by calling one of their stores. They usually have someone that speaks English. If a full huandao loop of Taiwan is too long, or if you want to cycle only the more beautiful East coast you can drop the bike off at any other Giant shop too. A popular version is to pick up a Giant huandao bike in Taipei, ride from there to the south via the East coast and drop the bike off in Kaohsiung or Taitung. Accomdoation along the way is plentiful with camp sites and many guesthouses catering to huandao cyclists. Stayin so called Minsu guesthouses/ bed and breakfast places is great. Just google 民宿 when you are looking for a local place to stay and you will almost always find one close to where you are. Expect to pay between 300 and 600 TWD for a dorm bed including breakfast. Taiwan 加油 (jiayou) Nation When you cycle in Taiwan you will get loads of smiles and encouragements from passersby, shop owners, scooter drivers and road construction workers. Get ready to hear a lot of 加油,加油 (jiayou jiayou) from the Taiwanese. It is the common encouragement heard in stadiums and during sport matches… And they will yell it at you too. It is pronounced ‘Jia you’ (zhaa Joooo) and its literal meaning is ‘add oil’… But taken in a context of ‘add oil to the fire’ you get a verbal ignition to light the sporting powerful fire in you! ‘Come onnnn’ or ‘Go go go’ would be the English translation for those plentiful support yells you will hear along the way. Source: Kickass Trips
Sore muscles, aching bones, and pains in areas of body that you didn’t know existed. This is the life of an adult trying to get in shape. Going for a quick run isn’t as easy today as it used be and this, among many other reasons, is why cycling is the best sport ever. As our muscles and bones continue to age, finding exercises that not only keep us in shape, but allow us to live to tell, are priceless. As a low-impact sport, cycling has enormous health benefits. While we’ll mention a few below, this article serves to point out some of the incredible benefits of cycling that reach beyond a good muscle workout, improved joint mobility, and increased cardiovascular health. Getting on a bicycle for a half an hour everyday does a lot of good and it isn’t just because these rides keep you fit. Cycling is truly the bee’s knees and we’re here to tell you a few interesting reasons why. Let’s get pedaling. Cycling is home to some of the most groundbreaking creative thinking to date. From artists to musicians to writers, breaking through mental blocks and steering ideas to new places can all happen on two wheels. Promoting the flow of oxygen in your brain, neurons are sparked during bike rides that allow for unbelievable brainstorms and innovation problem solving. Getting a bike a little bit each day actually helps you to get a better, deeper night’s sleep. Backed by a study from the Standard University School of Medicine, the circadian rhythm is able to sync with much more ease with outdoor exercise. In addition, stress hormones that thwart regenerative, deep sleep are reduced with a 20-30 minute cycle. Your sex life is improved by cycling. Yes, you read that correctly. Physical activity has been proven to improve your vascular health, which increases your sex drive. Can you say couple bike rides? Cycling benefits your baby. Sounds crazy, right? Wrong. Getting on a bike everyday while pregnant has been said to boost your mood, make labor much easier, and lowers the likelihood of your child becoming obese by 50 percent. Cyclists have more friends. Okay, this one may not be proven, but the social benefits of cycling go without saying. Group rides are one of the most popular ways that cyclists get out on the roads every night. Join a club, gather your neighbors, or start a team of your own – no matter how you slice it, cycling will most definitely help your social life. Bike rides get you high. Not the high that you felt in your dorm room ages ago, but a new, invigorating high that will start a serious cycling addiction, and that’s a good thing. “Runner’s high” is a real thing and it of course applies to cyclists. There is a direct correlation between cycling and feelings of well-being. Get on a bike and feel the joys that come from a natural high. Forget an extra cup of coffee; cycling can actually increase your bowels. Studies have shown that physical activity plays a role in decreasing the amount of time that it takes for food to travel through the large intestine. This limits the amount of water that is absorbed back into the body, allowing for softer stools. Cycling makes you smarter. Around age 30 the mind has more trouble with its memory. Cycling, however, builds up new brain cells in the hippocampus, which is the part of the brain that controls memory. The boost of oxygen and blood flow to the brain will work wonders to improve your ability to remember. Bicycle riders protect themselves from serious diseases like heart attacks, some cancers, obesity, strokes, arthritis, and depression. From a decrease in body fat to an increase in flexibility and muscle strength, getting on a bike everyday is imperative to improving your overall health. The “green movement” isn’t the only reason that cycling’s popularity is growing at astronomical rates. Since 2000, bicycle commutes in major metropolitan areas throughout the United States have said to increase by over 70 percent, and that’s just in our country. Worldwide, cycling has seen even more impressive popularity. So, what are you waiting for? It’s time to pedal into a new lifestyle of cycling. Source: Bill Bone Bike Law
There are millions of Americans who ride bikes and those numbers are increasing all the time. With more and more riders on the trails and roads, these tips for beginner cyclists will help you ride better and safer. 1. Protect your head. Head injuries are the cause of 60 percent of all cycling deaths in the U. S. every year. Many of these deaths could be avoided if everyone wore a helmet while cycling. Always wear a helmet when riding and make sure your kids do as well. Many states have bike helmet laws, but you should always wear one even if you don't have too. 2. Don't pedal in high gear for extended periods of time. You want to try and keep your cadence between 70 and 90 rpm's. When you pedal in a high gear it puts added strain on you knees. 3. Use your gears. When climbing hills shift into a gear that will keep your cadence in the right range of rpm's so you can make it up the hill without putting undue stress on your knees. 4. Get a proper bike fit. Having your bike set up to fit your body will make riding much easier, more efficient and cause you much less pain and soreness during and after the ride. 5. Get the right saddle. Getting the right saddle will make a huge difference when riding. Don't think the thickest padding will give you the most comfortable ride. A longer seat with a cutout will generally be the best type of saddle. Read reviews online and find out what others like, then test ride a few. 6. Change position while riding. Move your hands around on the bars, and move your rear end around on the saddle. This will keep your hands, arms and rear from getting numb due to prolonged time in a given position. 7. Don't ride with headphones on. It can be extremely dangerous if you don't hear an emergency vehicle or other commotions behind you or off to the side. If you have to have music, get a small clip-on radio with a speaker that you can attach to your jersey. 8. Know the rules. Ride with traffic and obey all road signs. Closely watch all cars in front of you so you can try to anticipate what they are going to do. 9. Keep your head up. Look out in front far enough ahead so you can react to any obstacles in the road or on the shoulder in front of you. Things like storm drain grates are very bad for skinny road bike tires. If you follow these tips you will have a better, safer and more enjoyable time on your bike. Source: Active
*****From coastal views to intense climbs and world-class events, taiwan is the ultimate cycling destination you never considered. Taiwan looks as if it were designed as a paradise for cyclists. Offering unparalleled scenery, challenging terrain, and amenities for weary riders, the island nation draws more and more visitors from across the globe each year. “There aren’t many places in the world where you can ride along the coast, then (travel a short distance to) climb an 11,000-foot mountain,” said Nate Schickel, a frequent visitor to the island nation. *****Where to go****** The famed Cycling Route No. 1 might be the best way to experience Taiwan cycling culture firsthand, taking riders about 1,200 kilometers around the island, following the breathtakingly scenic coast. Riders pass numerous historic temples and villages, take in gorgeous gardens and lakes, and, of course, travel up multiple mountains. “Most of (Cycling Route No.1 ) is either protected bike lanes or ample sized bike lanes,” said Brian Hemsworth, an avid cyclist who rode much of the route last year. The food is great. The people are wonderful. And the riding is amazing! “The southeastern side of Taiwan was among my favorite parts of the ride. Protected bike paths through rice paddies and lush green valley were postcard perfect. But my best day was the mountain pass on Highway 9, crossing from the east coast to the west coast at the southern end of the island. A great climb, a great descent, and stunning views along the way.” The eastern side of the country is a bit more rugged than the densely populated west coast, but still abound with food and lodging options. Most visitors find 12 days is more than enough time to ride the entire route, while still enjoying the stops along the way. *****Infrastructure***** If you’ll be spending more time off the bike than on while riding around Taipei or one of the other major cities, consider taking advantage of the local bike-share system. YouBikes stations can be found on most streets, and riders are charged for every half hour in the saddle. Visitors can use the same EasyCard they use for the public transit system. Given the number of bicycle manufacturers located in Taiwan – Giant Bicycles, the largest bike manufacturer in the world, is headquartered here – expect to see plenty of both local and international cyclists on the latest equipment. People who weren’t able to bring their own bike can rent one from nearly 300 Giant storesthroughout the country. Unfortunately, the site doesn’t have an English option yet, so you may need to use auto-translate. Taking a cue from the popular cycling routes in Europe, Taiwan has its share of bike hotels, where guests can find a maintenance room where they can wash and repair their creaky steeds, then rest themselves. ****Big events***** The best time to visit might be in the fall, when the humidity drops and the country hosts the Taiwan Cycling Fest each October and November. The highlight could be the Formosa 900, which uses basically the same template as Cycling Route No. 1, with dozens of teams pedaling nearly 900 kilometers over 9 days. So which is better? “Formosa 900 is a cycling event that happens annually, whereas Cycling Route No. 1 will always be there for you to explore”, said Brad Shih, Director of Taiwan Tourism Bureau’s Los Angeles Office. “Both are wonderful opportunities to experience the beauty of Taiwan on two wheels. If you wish to go around the island at your own pace, doing Cycling Route No. 1 might be more appropriate. Want to meet fellow cyclists and do it as a team? Then joining Formosa 900 would be the way to go.” Held at the same time as the Taiwan Cycling Fest, the Sun Moon Lake Cycling, Music, and Fireworks Festival is a great pairing of local beauty, wonderful sounds, and spectacular nighttime entertainment. Looking to push yourself even more? Tackle the Taiwan KOM Challenge, where riders climb more than 11,000 brutal feet over 69 miles. Both amateur and World Tour riders suffer on this beautiful, switchback-filled climb up Taroko Mountain, generally considered one of the hardest in the world. Grades in the last 10 miles can hit 20 percent and last for what seems like an eternity. Throughout the country, more than 200 peaks surpass 10,000-feet in height, making Taiwan a climber’s dream. No matter what time of year you visit, be sure to pack arm warmers or a jacket. While temperatures routinely exceed 86 degrees from June through August, you’ll likely encounter bitter cold and maybe even snow atop many of the high mountains. *****Making plans***** If you’d rather focus on riding and leave the planning to someone else, multiple outfitters – Giant Adventure, My Taiwan Tour, Panagoe Professional Cycling Tour, and Lion Travel – offer guided or self-guided tours. Source: Bicycling
Seeing a country by bike is one of the most rewarding, connected, tactile and thrilling ways of getting to know a new destination. Cycling to be green, to get fit or just for a new challenge in life, combining sport and travel could be a completely life changing experience. And in the fascinating continent of Asia, with its exotic landscapes and great variety of cultures, this is a truly wonderful way of exploring. Whether you’re a pro rider or a cycling novice, travelling by bike can be done at your own pace and there are no rules about how many times you stop along the way. There are countless trails to suit different riding levels, but here are our top 10 cycling holiday routes in Asia… 1). Silk Road, China The famous Silk Road is made up of a network of trade routes which were established during the Chinese Han dynasty (206 BC - 220 AD) when silk traders travelled to and from different parts of Asia. The routes connect East and West Asia, even extending to parts of Europe, and was used by many traders, monks and soldiers in the past. Today, these ancient routes have become popular with travellers wanting to trek or cycle. If you’re looking for both a physical and mental challenge, we would recommend cycling the historic Silk Road. There are three main routes of the Silk Road in the Xinjiang Uygur autonomous region: the northern route which covers the Tianshan Mountains, Hami, Urumqi and Yining; the central route which takes you westward to the southern foot of the Tianshan Mountains, passing through Ruoqiang, Turpan, Korla, Kuqa, Aksu and Kashgar; and the southern route which takes you around the Kunlun Mountains, Hetian, Yechang, Shache and Kashgar. All three routes offer the most wonderful views of China’s untouched countryside. 2). Qinghai Lake, China The route around the vast Qinghai Lake in China will take 4 to 7 days of cycling. The total distance is over 220 miles and runs clockwise from Heimahe Town, finishing at Huangyuan County. The beautiful alkaline lake, which is said to change colour depending on season or time of day, is located in the culturally Tibetan area of China and has been a sacred lake to the Tibetan people for many centuries. In terms of difficulty, at a steady and comfortable pace this route can be completed with ease. Due to the Qinghai Lake International Cycling Race, which has taken place every July since 2002, the roads are well maintained and very easy to ride on. The asphalt road makes an excellent smooth surface, so you won’t be up against rough terrain. For the best weather and the clearest views of the peaceful lake, visit during summer. The best months for cycling are July and August, but remember to travel with layers as the temperatures can drop dramatically in the evenings. 3). Angkor Wat, Cambodia Biking around the Angkor Wat temple complex is one of the best ways of exploring the lesser known wonders of this incredible archaeological site. Angkor, set in the northern Siem Reap province of Cambodia is one of the most important sites of historical significance, one which also carries a painful past, and it spreads across almost 250 square miles of land. The most famous temples include Angkor Wat, Bayon Temple, Ta Prohm Wat (which featured in the Tomb Raider movie with Angelina Jolie) and the Preah Khan Temple. But there are also some lesser known temples such as Baksei Chamkrong, Banteay Srei, Preah Ko and the 10th century East Mebon structure, which are all really worth exploring and can be easily reached on bike. If you’re not planning on taking your own bike, you can rent a bicycle from the old market area in Siem Reap for just a few dollars a day. But remember, prices are often not fixed so be sure to haggle. 4). Himalayas, Bhutan The small landlocked country of Bhutan, nestled in the eastern foothills of the Himalayas, is packed with mind-blowing scenery and unspoiled wildlife. Although small in size, when it comes to natural sights and dramatic mountain views, the Bhutan certainly doesn’t disappoint. Still reasonably undiscovered by the clutches of tourism, a journey to the Himalayas in Bhutan will feel completely off the beaten path. The impressive Himalayan mountain range reaches 29,029 ft. in height and stretches 1,500 miles in length, spanning a total of five countries: Pakistan, China, Nepal, India and Bhutan. If you want to explore the mountain range and the surrounding area in Bhutan, the best way to do this is by bike. The rides are challenging with long uphill climbs, but you’ll find plenty of paved roads that are even enough for cycling. The views are truly spectacular with an ever-changing mountainscape as you tackle the ascending passes and long descents. You will be greeted with the magic of surreal temples, dzongs and monasteries along the way. 5). National Highway 1, Vietnam Vietnam’s National Highway 1, connecting the two major cities of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh (formerly Saigon), is the most popular cycling route in Vietnam. Disconnected by warfare for many years, it has now become a famous trail for those who are looking for a physical challenge with great rewards. The road also acts as a symbol of unity for the Vietnamese people. However, the route is now crowded and runs through many built up areas. If you’re in search of some cultural and spiritual exploration, then we’d recommend the northern stretch of the Ho Chi Minh trail from Ngoc Lac to the Hai Van Pass in Da Nang. This route was originally an elaborate web of jungle trails linking the country’s North and South during the Vietnam War. You will need a minimum of 10 days to complete the 500 mile stretch of road, but we would definitely recommend allowing a few extra days giving you enough time to explore each stopover. There are also a few steep hill climbs so be sure to carry plenty of water. 6). Serpentine Road and Jaipur, India The Pink City of Jaipur is located in North India and has earned its name from its lime plastered buildings which fill the cityscape with a deep pink colour in bright daylight. Founded in 1727 by the Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh, Jaipur is one of the country’s distinctive ‘planned cities’, and today it stands out as a unique place with pristine streets built with the highest levels of orderliness. Overlooked by the Nag Tibba Mountain, Jaipur is a stunning city best captured on foot or by bicycle. The winding Serpentine Road is a steady ascent into the mountains and from the top, you can catch the most amazing views of the city. Jaipur centre itself can also be explored on a biking tour; ride through the colourful bazaars and see the city’s major architectural sites including the Albert Hall Museum, the Water Palace, the Maharajah’s cenotaphs, and the beautiful Marble Carvers’ District. 7). East Coast Park, Singapore This cycle route is a city trail with a difference; combining the convenience of the city with the beauty of beach and coastal scenery, there’s no other bike route like it in the world. If you’re looking for a gruelling life challenge though, this isn’t for you. The relaxed family atmosphere of East Coast Park and the coastal road is designed for a leisurely, laissez-faire approach to cycling. So, if you’re a beginner and don’t want to tackle anything too challenging just yet, this is the perfect cycling route to ease you into some longer rides. Starting your journey at East Coast Park, a beautiful man-made beach, you will ride along the coastal stretch of the city where cycling is a very popular activity with locals and travellers alike. The entire route is built on reclaimed land so you won’t have to deal with any rough or uneven terrain and with skate parks, beaches and waterparks along the way, there will be plenty to do if you wish to take a break from cycling. Ending at Changi Village, you will find a huge selection of food hawkers and food halls to satisfy your appetite. For that well-earned meal after your 4- 5-hour cycle tour, head to Changi Village Food Centre where there will be a fantastic choice of street food stalls. 8) Bangkok to Phuket, Thailand Bangkok and Phuket are must visit destinations in Thailand, both with their own unique charm. Cycling from one to the other will take you around 10 days and covering around 523 miles of stunning coastline, there will be plenty of beach stopovers. For the perfect combination of bike and beach, make sure you allow yourself a couple of extra days to relax and wind down at some of the resorts dotted along the coast. If you have a day or two to spend in Bangkok before you begin your journey, be sure to visit The Temple of the Dawn (Wat Arun), the Grand Palace and Wat Prakeaw, Wat Pho, the bustling Chinatown, and the amazing Damnoen Saduak floating market. Once on the road, the cycling route will take you through some amazing virgin forests and picturesque rice fields, stunning natural sites such as Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park and Kui Buri National Park, and some lovely little beach towns that you would otherwise miss if you travelled by train, coach or car. 9) Mekong River, Cambodia The spectacular Mekong River is as much a gem of Cambodia as its temples; it is the 12th longest river in the world (and 7th longest in Asia) and stretches over 2,700 miles through China, Myanmar (Burma), Laos, Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam. If you’re cycling along the 50 mile stretch of river in Cambodia, you will be able to find bicycle rentals such as CRD Tours (which is run by the Cambodian Rural Development Charity). However, you’ll be hard pressed to find sufficient cycling equipment and safety gear – so make sure you bring these with you or source them elsewhere. The best time to cycle the Mekong River is in January and February when temperatures are comfortable and dry. If you want to avoid the crowds, the best time to ride is in September or October but this is typically the rainy season so be sure to bring lightweight waterproofs. 10). Hiroshima's Shimanami Kaido, Japan Shimanami Kaido – also called the Nishiseto Expressway – is one of the most impressive cycle routes in Japan and the world, but the beauty of this incredible toll road is that it can be completed in just a matter of hours. Just under 40 miles, this uncomplicated stretch of road connecting Honshu to the island of Shikoku makes for a smooth, easy ride; perfect for beginners, younger riders and families. This route offers amazing coastal scenery and you will pass over the 6 islands of Mukaishima, Innoshima, Omishima, Hakatajima and Oshima before finishing up at the tranquil and laid-back Shikoku. When renting bikes, there are two rental options available along the expressway. The first, and the most popular, has a large number of terminals across the cycle route and is around 500 Yen per day with a 1,000 Yen deposit per bike. The second, available with The Giant Store Imabari, costs between 4,000 and 7,000 Yen per day for high-tech bicycles and there are only 2 terminals across the whole route. Source: Ampersandtravel
Bike lanes blocked by bollards, potholes, contradictory signs and “the world’s shortest bike lane”: when we asked for examples of the best and worst cycle infrastructure in cities the submissions came in thick and fast. Readers around the world shared photos of bikes lanes that were impossibly narrow, that led nowhere or were blocked by parked cars, even police cars. On the upside there were also cycle networks and paths that were a joy for people on bikes. Here are some of the best (and worst). Cambridge: signed pothole This photo of a bike sign, and an arrow pointing at a pothole, was sent in by Brian Hart. “Taken in Thoday Street Cambridge, part of the new Cambridge infrastructure.” Cape Town: ‘Even the police park on the bike lane’ Jared took this picture in the city centre in Cape Town: “This green lane is one of the only bike lanes in Cape Town. It’s a glorified parking and taxi overtaking lane. And even the police park on it.” Berlin: ‘More of this please’ This photo of a new bike lane at Hasenheide, in Neukölln, Berlin, was sent in by a reader who said: “Beautiful safe bike lane. More of that, please. Hong Kong: ‘Contradictory signs’ Is cycling allowed? This photo was sent in by James Tagg, who said: “Contradictory cycle path signs abound in Hong Kong ...” Bucharest: A tree blocks a bike path A reader let us know about this bicycle lane in Bucharest where a huge tree blocks the entire path. Seoul: ‘One of the finest networks of long distance cycling routes’ Brian Grover said: “This picture shows a repurposed highway bridge and a purpose-built bypass along a steeper section of the Nakdong River. It was taken on the Seoul to Busan mainline of the 4 Rivers Cycling network in South Korea. South Korea may have one of the finest networks of long distance cycling routes in the world.” Bristol: ‘It’s incredibly dangerous’ A reader sent in this photo of Jacob’s Wells Road roundabout in Bristol, and said: “This short cycle lane goes nowhere! It sits between two lanes – look at the lines separating the lanes either side of it. Incredibly dangerous.” London: ‘Shameful’ Michael, from London, said: “This is the shameful cycle lane on Parkway going into the Regent’s Park at Gloucester Gate. My daughter, in the picture, is on her school journey.” Leeds: ‘The shortest bike lane ever?’ Paul Bunton in Leeds said: “A great local example in Leeds which is nine paces long. This was taken at the junction of King Lane and Nursery Lane in Leeds on 19 June. One of the shortest bike lanes I’ve ever seen!” Dublin: ‘It’s not even possible to open the gate’ Joan Sugrue in Dublin: “This is the cycle lane coming out from Deaf Village onto the Navan Road in Dublin. It is not even possible to open this gate as there are no movable hinges on it. It is a totally fixed structure.” Bhubaneswar: Rubbish-strewn route This photo was taken in Bhubaneswar in eastern India where part of a street was recently painted for cycling but garbage has been dumped on it. Cardiff: ‘A great cycling resource’ Duncan in Cardiff says: “Cardiff barrage is a great cycling resource with virtually no cars bar a few dock workers. It is just a shame that Cardiff council obstructs or blocks cycling across it during the summer for events in the bay.” Birmingham: ‘A new cycle path’ Tom from Birmingham said: “A tasteful shade of blue tarmac marks the new cycle path down the central reservation in Bristol Road, three miles south of Birmingham city centre. It is part of a new cycle path from the city centre to Birmingham University and Selly Oak. The photo is looking north on the Bristol Road (A38) a short distance north of the intersection with Edgbaston Park Road. There were no cyclists in sight at this time, but already some cyclists are using it to commute and it will probably become much busier when the new academic year starts next September and hordes of students flood into this part of Birmingham.” Edinburgh: ‘Do I risk it?... Mmm, not today’ Istvan sent in this photo taken in Queen Street, Edinburgh and says: “Do I risk it? ... Mmm, not today ... Each traffic light on Queen Street has this very narrow bike lane to lead you to a bike zone in front of the traffic (usually used by cars, taxis and buses). There are many of these useless lanes everywhere in Edinburgh, and many many used for parking (when they don’t have a double yellow line above the bicycle sign).” Vienna: ‘Many people use bikes’ Laurence says: “This is just one of the ramps in Vienna, leading from the bridges over the Danube, to the bike track along each side of the river. There is a network of bike routes criss-crossing the city, with their own traffic lights at many junctions. Not surprisingly many people use bikes to get around the city.” Source: The guardian
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AuthorWelcome to the Cycling blog. Covering all things cycling for anyone that loves to ride. No matter the discipline we have advice, news & reviews for you. Archives
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